The New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion
Description
In The New Black Vanguard: Photography between Art and Fashion, curator and critic Antwaun Sargent addresses a radical transformation taking place in fashion and art today. The featuring of the Black figure and Black runway and cover models in the media and art has been one marker of increasingly inclusive fashion and art communities. More critically, however, the contemporary visual vocabulary around beauty and the body has been reinfused with new vitality and substance thanks to an increase in powerful images authored by an international community of Black photographers.
In a richly illustrated essay, Sargent opens up the conversation around the role of the Black body in the marketplace; the cross-pollination between art, fashion, and culture in constructing an image; and the institutional barriers that have historically been an impediment to Black photographers participating more fully in the fashion (and art) industries. Fifteen artist portfolios feature the brightest contemporary fashion photographers, including Tyler Mitchell, the first Black photographer hired to shoot a cover story for American Vogue; Campbell Addy, founder of the Nii Agency and journal; and Nadine Ijewere, whose early series title, The Misrepresentation of Representation, says it all. Alongside a series of conversations between generations, their images and stories chart the history of inclusion, and exclusion, in the creation of the commercial Black image, while simultaneously proposing a brilliantly reenvisioned future. Photographs by Campbell Addy, Arielle Bobb-Willis, Micaiah Carter, Awol Erizku, Nadine Ijewere, Quil Lemons, Namsa Leuba, Renell Medrano, Tyler Mitchell, Jamal Nxedlana, Daniel Obasi, Ruth Ossai, Adrienne Raquel, Dana Scruggs, and Stephen Tayo And including conversations with Shaniqwa Jarvis, Mickalene Thomas, and Deborah WillisProduct Details
Price
$50.00
$46.50
Publisher
Aperture
Publish Date
October 29, 2019
Pages
304
Dimensions
8.6 X 11.2 X 1.2 inches | 3.85 pounds
Language
English
Type
Hardcover
EAN/UPC
9781597114684
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About the Author
Antwaun Sargent is a writer, curator, and a director at Gagosian Gallery. His recent books are The New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion (Aperture, 2019) and Young, Gifted and Black: A New Generation of Artists (2020). His recent curatorial projects include a series of group shows called Social Works, as well as solo presentations of artists Virgil Abloh, Awol Erizku, Rick Lowe, Tyler Mitchell, Alexandria Smith, and Amanda Williams.
Mickalene Thomas earned her BFA in painting at Pratt Institute in 2000 and an MFA at the Yale University School of Art in 2002. Thomas participated in residencies at the Studio Museum in Harlem, New York, 2000 3, and at the Versailles Foundation Munn Artists Program, Giverny, France, 2011. Her work has been included in countless exhibitions worldwide, including at La Conservera, Ceuti, Spain (2009); National Portrait Gallery, Washington, D.C. (2010); Hara Museum, Tokyo (2011), Santa Monica Museum of Art, California (2012); and Brooklyn Museum (2012 13). She is represented by Lehmann Maupin in New York, Susanne Vielmetter Los Angeles Projects, and Galerie Nathalie Obadia in Paris.
Tyler Mitchell is the author of Web Mapping Illustrated - a book focused on teaching how to use popular Open Source Geospatial Toolkits. He works as the Executive Director of the Open Source Geospatial Foundation, aka OSGeo. He has over a dozen years of industrial geospatial and GIS experience in natural resource management and forestry in western Canada. He came to open source to find tools that he could use throughout his career as a geospatial professional. What he found were tools that could dramatically improve enterprise, corporate-wide, geospatial data management and communication. He is an avid proponent of the popular web mapping program, MapServer, and other spatial data management tools including PostGIS, GDAL/OGR and QGIS. His work and interests include geospatial and tabular data management, analysis, manipulation and visualization through maps.
Arielle Bobb-Willis (born in New York, 1994) has published her photography in the New Yorker, I-D, W Magazine, British Journal of Photography, L'uomo Vogue, New York magazine's The Cut, and the New York Times Magazine. Her work is featured in The New Black Vanguard: Photography between Art and Fashion (Aperture, 2019) and an accompanying exhibition, which traveled to the Museum of the African Diaspora, Rencontres d'Arles, Fotografiska Sweden, and other venues. She is currently based in Los Angeles.
Reviews
"Systemic change is already afoot, with many of Sargent's chosen photographers expanding the scope of their work... Righting historical wrongs is one of Sargent's goals."--Radhika Seth, Vogue "...explores and expands the visual narrative on beauty and identity in mainstream culture, but also on ideas specific to gender." --Rebecca Carroll, WNYC "These photographers are spearheading a new aesthetic in fashion and art, and are currently some of the most sought-after names in the business." --Kemi Alemoru, The Guardian "The sheer size of emerging talent featured in The New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion, a new book by the curator, critic, and W contributor Antwaun Sargent, is astonishing." --Stephanie Eckardt, W "The New Black Vanguard is a celebratory and thought-provoking mesh of fashion and art." --Eni Subair, Refinery29 "With photos illuminating life in Black America and the African diaspora, these artists are crafting a new way of speaking visually about politics and representation." --Devine Blacksher, The Cut "The survey includes 15 portfolios of work form women and men; it serves as a resource for editors and curators, a snapshot of the changing fashion and fine-art landscapes, and a celebration of black beauty in all of its guises." --Jacqui Palumbo, Artsy "The artists of The New Black Vanguard are telling stories of social and political inclusivity, advocating for a wider celebration of beauty and the self--a powerful antidote for a group previously marginalized in mainstream fashion and culture." --Gemma Fletcher, Elephant "A cohort of contemporary black photographers are doing just this: querying the colour-blindness of arts establishments by showing how these figures should be depicted." --Kadish Morris, Frieze "The book, Sargent stresses, doesn't offer a monolithic perspective on the black body and the black subject but rather diverse representations of blackness from all over the world." --Daphne Milner, AnOther
